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Antique or decoupage crackle

Another source of information is useful Kjara , I recommend you visit his site perfectly structured and organized. He has now made available for all book in a pdf version on various decorative painting techniques. Here I report
his chapter on crackle:

Antique

The "Antique" is a painting technique that creates a web of fine cracks on a surface or object that will give a pleasant look worn or old.

There are two ways to get the effect craquelure, which have two different results, which are valid depending on the effect you want.

• Antique a first or basic : Used to prepare the grounds to be decorated with decoupage then
• Antique finish second or so: it is used after you have painted decoupage

Let's start with the first.

Antique early style or basic

As I said, the crackle base is used to prepare some basic decoupage to decorate then, when you want to create a deliberately antique. Of course nothing prevents you from achieving the effect craquelure only and do not decoupage: in fact, the crackle effect is already in his very nice and lends itself the painting of furniture and frames regardless of whether or not you fond of decoupage. This type of crackle

must necessarily be done before the decorations decoupage.

Let us first what we need, then we will see in detail the various phases of work.

Needed:

• Acrylics two colors: one will be used for the background color and the other for the color of the cracks.
  


• Middle cracking: to die to the painted surface.
  


• Glue PVA glue or filler : used in case you're decorating a wooden object to prepare the surface for painting.
  


• Idropittura : to prepare the base before the acrylic paint.
  


• medium-grained sandpaper : to smooth the surface to be painted.
  


• Brushes
  

I believe that most of these things are already in the house, you can find the medium in the paint cracking or shops that sell products for decoupage type garden centers ...

how:

For a good result it is necessary that the surface is perfectly smooth and well adhesion to the color. Therefore, as usual we have to prepare the basis for the color. If you're painting a wooden object we must first apply a coat of sealer or glue diluted PVA glue which has the same function. When dry, spreading the water-based paint or acrylic plaster. If we need a second hand. Once dry, sand with sandpaper to obtain a perfectly smooth surface.

At this point we have to choose colors. In this example, will realize cracks ocher on light blue.

First you need to spread the color we chose for the cracks: thus spreading the ocher.

Let dry completely, if the area does not seem uniformly covered we can also give a second coat. When this color is completely dry applied with a flat brush, clean, dry cracking the medium.

Note that the medium has a gelatinous consistency and most successful enough to "pull" or spread in a thin layer, the more the cracks are thin and thick, the more spread in a thick, more cracks will be large and sparse.

Read the directions on your bottle because every product and every brand has its own drying time, however, after an average of 60 minutes you can roll out the second color, which is the predominant color, in our case the sky. The color spread on the medium will crack, leaving a glimpse through the cracks in the underlying color: ocher.

careful when you roll out the second color: Use a large flat brush, try wherever possible not to have returned to the same point with the brush, because otherwise removed below the medium and the effect will not form more crepettato.

Some variants that we can do:

At this point, once dry, you can proceed with decoupage decoration exactly as they did in the case of funds normally painted.

In the case we do not want to proceed with decoupage decoration, you can apply a coat of protective paint acrylic or opaque as desired.

Antique finish second or so

The crackle finish is achieved after a decorated surface decoupage, when the object you want to give something deliberately Antique. It allows you to get cracks other than those obtained by the previous technique, in addition, while the cracks in the first method are always on the bottom, or behind the images of decoupage, the cracks of this second method are always in front of the entire composition: background and foreground images.

Obviously this type of crackle can also be used for finishing of pictures that you want to give an antique effect. Carefully read the instructions on how to proceed, because it works differently depending on whether the framework is in acrylics or oil.

After finishing decoupage, and after having given several coats of paint according to the usual technique, we proceed to stretch the paint cracking.
We see the basic technique to get the crackle finish.

antique traditional method:

Needed

• Flatting solvent turpentine or paint aging is the first to spread paint on the object to be finished in craquelèe.
  


• cracking paint: Paint that is the second in contact with the first pancake house, is sold in paint, that's good Maimeri.
  


• Gum arabic It is an alternative to the cracking paint, is on sale in shops in flakes of fine arts and should be diluted with water until the consistency of honey.
  


• Shellac : is another alternative to the cracking paint, always on sale in shops in flakes of fine arts, and should be dissolved in alcohol.
  

how:

Spread a coat of varnish or paint flatting aging on the surface or object decorated with decoupage picture painted in acrylics.

Let the paint dry but not too much, in that it must be slightly under the pressure of sticky fingers, but dry enough not to leave fingerprints or brush.
If instead it is a picture painted with oil colors you skip this step, because the oil color contrast with the paint is already cracking that overlap.

Roll now with the brush the paint cracking or gum arabic or shellac.

The cracks are formed by the incopatibilità of the two paints. Keep in mind that the cracks are larger and far between if the paint underneath is still quite wet, but will be thinner if the paint in thick and almost dry.

With the hair dryer dry the area just painted in a short time, you'll see the cracks forming. Let dry completely

the second paint for a few hours after the appearance of cracks. At this point
dilute a bit 'of paint umber with a little' of turpentine with a soft cloth and helping spread it evenly over the surface cracking. The color will remain trapped in the cracks. Remove excess color with a clean cotton cloth lint-free cloth and allow to dry for at least a day.
an alternative to oil paints you can use the bitumen of Judea bitumen or wax (easier to spread)

Brush up one last coat of paint flatting or aging on the dry surface to make it shiny and waterproof.

To avoid disappointment try to discarded objects by varying the drying time of the first coating and thickness.
Note that the result depends on the degree of humidity of the environment in which you work, speeding up or slowing down the drying.

Eisistono in the shops of fine art also of the two paints listed above appropriate kit complete with a leaflet to help with the drying times, read the instructions and try ...

Here's an example:

Defects:

As you can see from this type of finishing craquelèe tends to yellow colors, necessarily because you had to lay two coats of varnish and turpentine solvent flatting the paint cracking or gum arabic or shellac has an amber color.

's not exactly a fault, but you might not always like this yellowing effect.

Alternatives:

If you do not like the effect of yellowing traditional antique trade also exist in other water-based products that manage to create a cracked surface. Let's see some
:

paint cracking water bicomponent

These two items sold together in practice to replace the paint antiquing in the paint cracking.
are used in the same manner described above in traditional antique, please read the instructions along with the vials, because each brand has its times.

However, in principle, with this type of product you apply a second coat of paint if you want abundant cracks sparse and thinner if you want thick cracks.

And here's what you get (I tried with the 'print':

Paint cracking water component

This is a 'one product that once stretched without cracks contrast with another paint. Create a network of finer cracks when drying is slow, more often if the drying is speeded up, for example with a hair dryer with the heater.
This type of crack is very similar to the one that is built on the old pottery.

And here's what you get (I tried with that line of "Easy")

The value of this product is that you have to give one coat of paint and once blackened the cracks with the color oil or wax bitumen will not require a further coat of protective paint.