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Pasting the napkins with the iron

Asket découper is a Polish woman who creates objects really refined and elegant, at least according to my taste. These are his two blogs: in Polish and English . Check it out, it's worth just to see what he does.
peek into her blog I found a step by step to a door in which the tissues very nice decoration is applied using of an iron ... is a technique that I had never seen (or at least on the Internet I have not seen anything like it in Italian) and with the permission of Asket I decided to translate part of the step by step (the translator of google Polish not doing too well, unfortunately) in which he explains how. The complete step by step, with lots of images, can be found here ...

Step by Step:

After painting the object to the way you like, let's see how to apply the towel with the iron:

1. Cut the napkin holder adjusting for the size of handkerchiefs. To crop we can get help from the ruler and pencil or we can measure it by laying the towel on the door-handkerchiefs.

2. We separate the first layer of the napkin from the other two, throw it away.

not worry about the roughness of the towel, eventually disappear completely in the glue.

3. Once completely dry, apply a layer of glue to where we want to paste the towel and do it dry. We can help with a hair dryer.

4. We turn on the iron choosing the lowest temperature (usually a "bullet")

5. Prepare a piece of parchment paper the size of the door-handkerchiefs.

6. We support the crop dry towel on the surface of the door-handkerchiefs

7. and support the paper towel from the oven with the slippery part of the iron.

8. Let the iron on the surface of the door-handkerchiefs. Better if we use all our might and squeeze it well on the iron surface.

Warning! If the paper sticks to napkins and napkin holders, not withdraw them immediately if the surface is hot, because then we risk tearing the napkin underneath thus ruining all the work. Expect the surface to cool and only then The paper will remove easily.

9. After removing the baking paper, we again gently wipe the surface with the iron, especially where we see that you are not stuck at all or on the rough side of the napkin.

At this point we can proceed to paste any image to finish the job, as usual.

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The advice and products alternator Celina

outstanding Celina some tips and useful information:
ll medium and bright 'a medium (which acts as an intermediary product, is mixed with other products, acrylic paints in this case) that makes the product color more transparent. You can use it to dilute the pigments.

The pencils solubles are colored pencils ... common, such as those used in school bathrooms if a colored picture with them, you can have a watercolor effect. The purple

is a powder metal and exists in various shades. To use it to gild an object, it is diluted with shellac or varnish with oil in the gel. To fill the cracks in carquelé using a sponge brush or a soft cloth and rub well. If the cracks are not apparent themes and to wash the item in the future with clear finish spray fix it. Stencil you can use it as an ancient decorative technique to create stunning effects (read the book "How to decorate with stencils" to Celine of Pisa).
What
paint "laccante" is advisable in decoupage? The ideal paint (dries quickly, does not yellow, does not change the color of the images, pollutes little and does not smell) is the acrylic. Among the different types to choose flooring that water 'cause scratch, anti-moisture and more resistant.
There is also the so-called flatting (in theory this word indicates that only oil-based, that 'a solvent, but in practice is used to indicate the acrylic, that' water-based). The real flatting oil yellow and gives an antique look for work. The brushes in this case should be cleaned with mineral spirits, turpentine or Universal (does not pollute). When work keeps a jar up with turpentine in which dip the brush in your work breaks (if you get up, answer the phone ...). To clean it, wash it well with mineral spirits. If you want to keep it in good condition keep him immersed in a jar with turpentine keeping it open (and lock wire tie it to a co cork). The thinner should not be thrown on the ground or drains. I have a barattolone filling with dirty thinner. Ask your local council where should be discarded. If you can avoid flatting foul; use transparent acrylic paint: in addition to the advantages mentioned above, the brushes can be washed with water.

What replaces the "cement" ? The cast acrylic, primer (more 'hands) and gypsum powder to "shape" (though this is more difficult to draw and it 'fragile). What replaces the

adhesion (in the case of impermeable surfaces)? The primer replacing it with cement or plaster acrylic and vice versa.
If you need to prepare a metal object are now available for anti-rust white or cream (usually are gray or orange). So now you're done with two hands and if you want a light background, you can work directly above (or stencil Découpe). What is the

filler? The sealer penetrates into the cracks of the wood and fill it. When and 'dry wood is very rough and you have sand, you will get a very smooth surface. If the wood is not 'too rough sandpaper directly and passes acrylic cement or gypsum and sand. Of course, the treated wood with filler (and sandpaper) and 'more polished. What is the

bitumen of Judea? It is a dark wax to age or fill in the cracks of the crackle. The stretch with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits or turpentine, rubbing well. Can 'spot, then spread it well (in which case add dell'acquaragia). There is also liquid and is called simply "bitumen".

What exactly is the effect of "pickled" ? How do you get? The effect
pickled (pickled by the French, scraped). E 'effect on wood used to remove the paint. In This way the wood looks worn. Scratch with a wire brush. Paint with background color then pass the wax rubbing here and there (using a candle). Then paint with a different color and handle the wax that will cover the veins that have shown through the wire brush. The paint that comes off will leave a glimpse of your fund. There are also special products in a kit including a French Liberon (in the do-it-yourself).

What kind of gold leaf should I use? There are two types of metallic leaf 1) the gold or silver leaf and the real metal (various colors) in "format" thin and fragile, 2) the leaf-off (foil), and that 'metal transferred onto a transparent support (See the transparency when you applied the metal on the mission). The glue used for both types is the mission (waiting 15 minutes to 2 days-must become transparent to begin with). I highly recommend using the leaf of the first type.

How to avoid the signs of streaks left by the brush when you paint the object? If you have this problem means you are skipping an important step: having "painted" the work with 20 coats of varnished (less for some finishing gel) phase begins sanding (see above). Sand the streaks disappear and your work is uniform and smooth. Continues with another dozen coats of paint alternating with sanding.

glue that is better used for decoupage under glass and why sometimes appear shiny spots on the picture pasted? The glue that is ideal for glass PVA (PVA), mixed with a little 'water (but not too much). The bright spots depend on a lack of glue. Put ever so much, cover it with your fingers, how to grease a pan, so as to burst the bubbles, then when you're pasting the paper otherwise too Schicchi not remove all the glue and they will be bright spots. In the book "How to decorate with decoupage" the problem is mentioned on page 72, in the "How". The artist Mery Nell, an expert in under the glass (see page. 80), has developed a special glue you can buy over the Internet.

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How to avoid the effect of stroke ...

Celina From site:
How to avoid the signs of streaks left by the brush and small bubbles or imperfections that are formed during the painting?

To avoid streak marks you must first paint holding the brush vertically to the surface and pass in alternate directions are always different: the first from top to bottom (wait for drying), then backward (wait for drying), then from left to right, wait for drying) and vice versa, then begins to paint from top to bottom ... After
"painted" with the work of the hands of a 20th varnished, phase begins sanding (see question above). If correspondence streaks and imperfections disappear and your work is uniform and smooth.

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curl

From guides Supereva :
What is "marbling"

Similar to sponging, marbling is obtained by dipping in the color spread in a tray, a cotton cloth, or a woolen cloth, properly wrapped in a kind of buffer, full of wrinkles.

To do this you use the wire with the cloth strips of cotton or linen. With effect

more rigid, some professional decorators use pellet of wrapping paper or coated paper which acts as buffer unusual sources.

I find a really nice project with Create Fantasia (unfortunately the site was closed, I do not know why ...)
that reproduce below:
In this project I wanted to combine the technique of marbling to decoupage under glass with gold leaf.

I chose to use acrylic paints for marbling colors instead of glass,

in order to achieve a delicate and not too bright.

First of all I degreased the pot with alcohol and I cut the flowers of the paper "Women's time."

So I placed the cutout on the front the plate and I fixed the glue removed.

On the back I stretched out my mission at the edge of the crop,

waited for half an hour to dry and I applied the gold leaf.

At this point I've waited 24 hours so that the mission is the gold leaf were applied very dry, so I went with the lightweight 220 grit sandpaper on the edges of gold leaf applied

so that they are the least uniform possible.

To remove residual mission I cleaned the plate with a rag soaked in alcohol.

I always clean with alcohol is also the front plate to eliminate the traces of repositionable glue, I made

the mixture of PVA glue and water,

I wet the crop with a damp sponge and I have pasted.

To facilitate the bonding phase and prevent the presence of air bubbles between the glass and trim, I immediately

buffered paper with a sponge and I waited until dry. After drying occurred

I concentrated on the edge of the plate.

Also on the back, I spread a thin layer of gold leaf on a mission to the outer edge and, once

become completely transparent, I have applied for residues of the poor in gold leaf

with your fingertips, insisting gently back and forth, using the finger as brushes.

At this point my dish was ready to be flamed.

as I chose the color white and a delicate purple flower color that resumption.

I prepared the two colors in two bowls and I have a bit diluted with water

until the consistency is pretty smooth.

I "painted" on the back plate using a flat brush,

alternating white brush strokes to lilac

never clean the brush in one color to another without worry of overlapping the two colors.

end of this phase I immediately sprayed with copious amounts of alcohol on the back of the plate

and made you join a sheet of plastic kitchen, which I then gently "moved" by hand.

Then I gently lifted the plastic wrap and let the colors dry very well.

After the drying phase of the mission I gave a hand to the water over the back of the plate

(even at cut-out) and spent an hour or so, I applied the gold leaf.

I then very lightly sanded the edge of the pot to remove any residue.

Before moving on to painting with gel flatting (two hands), I isolated the

gold leaf with shellac to prevent oxidation of the clarified over time.

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Antique or decoupage crackle

Another source of information is useful Kjara , I recommend you visit his site perfectly structured and organized. He has now made available for all book in a pdf version on various decorative painting techniques. Here I report
his chapter on crackle:

Antique

The "Antique" is a painting technique that creates a web of fine cracks on a surface or object that will give a pleasant look worn or old.

There are two ways to get the effect craquelure, which have two different results, which are valid depending on the effect you want.

• Antique a first or basic : Used to prepare the grounds to be decorated with decoupage then
• Antique finish second or so: it is used after you have painted decoupage

Let's start with the first.

Antique early style or basic

As I said, the crackle base is used to prepare some basic decoupage to decorate then, when you want to create a deliberately antique. Of course nothing prevents you from achieving the effect craquelure only and do not decoupage: in fact, the crackle effect is already in his very nice and lends itself the painting of furniture and frames regardless of whether or not you fond of decoupage. This type of crackle

must necessarily be done before the decorations decoupage.

Let us first what we need, then we will see in detail the various phases of work.

Needed:

• Acrylics two colors: one will be used for the background color and the other for the color of the cracks.
  


• Middle cracking: to die to the painted surface.
  


• Glue PVA glue or filler : used in case you're decorating a wooden object to prepare the surface for painting.
  


• Idropittura : to prepare the base before the acrylic paint.
  


• medium-grained sandpaper : to smooth the surface to be painted.
  


• Brushes
  

I believe that most of these things are already in the house, you can find the medium in the paint cracking or shops that sell products for decoupage type garden centers ...

how:

For a good result it is necessary that the surface is perfectly smooth and well adhesion to the color. Therefore, as usual we have to prepare the basis for the color. If you're painting a wooden object we must first apply a coat of sealer or glue diluted PVA glue which has the same function. When dry, spreading the water-based paint or acrylic plaster. If we need a second hand. Once dry, sand with sandpaper to obtain a perfectly smooth surface.

At this point we have to choose colors. In this example, will realize cracks ocher on light blue.

First you need to spread the color we chose for the cracks: thus spreading the ocher.

Let dry completely, if the area does not seem uniformly covered we can also give a second coat. When this color is completely dry applied with a flat brush, clean, dry cracking the medium.

Note that the medium has a gelatinous consistency and most successful enough to "pull" or spread in a thin layer, the more the cracks are thin and thick, the more spread in a thick, more cracks will be large and sparse.

Read the directions on your bottle because every product and every brand has its own drying time, however, after an average of 60 minutes you can roll out the second color, which is the predominant color, in our case the sky. The color spread on the medium will crack, leaving a glimpse through the cracks in the underlying color: ocher.

careful when you roll out the second color: Use a large flat brush, try wherever possible not to have returned to the same point with the brush, because otherwise removed below the medium and the effect will not form more crepettato.

Some variants that we can do:

At this point, once dry, you can proceed with decoupage decoration exactly as they did in the case of funds normally painted.

In the case we do not want to proceed with decoupage decoration, you can apply a coat of protective paint acrylic or opaque as desired.

Antique finish second or so

The crackle finish is achieved after a decorated surface decoupage, when the object you want to give something deliberately Antique. It allows you to get cracks other than those obtained by the previous technique, in addition, while the cracks in the first method are always on the bottom, or behind the images of decoupage, the cracks of this second method are always in front of the entire composition: background and foreground images.

Obviously this type of crackle can also be used for finishing of pictures that you want to give an antique effect. Carefully read the instructions on how to proceed, because it works differently depending on whether the framework is in acrylics or oil.

After finishing decoupage, and after having given several coats of paint according to the usual technique, we proceed to stretch the paint cracking.
We see the basic technique to get the crackle finish.

antique traditional method:

Needed

• Flatting solvent turpentine or paint aging is the first to spread paint on the object to be finished in craquelèe.
  


• cracking paint: Paint that is the second in contact with the first pancake house, is sold in paint, that's good Maimeri.
  


• Gum arabic It is an alternative to the cracking paint, is on sale in shops in flakes of fine arts and should be diluted with water until the consistency of honey.
  


• Shellac : is another alternative to the cracking paint, always on sale in shops in flakes of fine arts, and should be dissolved in alcohol.
  

how:

Spread a coat of varnish or paint flatting aging on the surface or object decorated with decoupage picture painted in acrylics.

Let the paint dry but not too much, in that it must be slightly under the pressure of sticky fingers, but dry enough not to leave fingerprints or brush.
If instead it is a picture painted with oil colors you skip this step, because the oil color contrast with the paint is already cracking that overlap.

Roll now with the brush the paint cracking or gum arabic or shellac.

The cracks are formed by the incopatibilità of the two paints. Keep in mind that the cracks are larger and far between if the paint underneath is still quite wet, but will be thinner if the paint in thick and almost dry.

With the hair dryer dry the area just painted in a short time, you'll see the cracks forming. Let dry completely

the second paint for a few hours after the appearance of cracks. At this point
dilute a bit 'of paint umber with a little' of turpentine with a soft cloth and helping spread it evenly over the surface cracking. The color will remain trapped in the cracks. Remove excess color with a clean cotton cloth lint-free cloth and allow to dry for at least a day.
an alternative to oil paints you can use the bitumen of Judea bitumen or wax (easier to spread)

Brush up one last coat of paint flatting or aging on the dry surface to make it shiny and waterproof.

To avoid disappointment try to discarded objects by varying the drying time of the first coating and thickness.
Note that the result depends on the degree of humidity of the environment in which you work, speeding up or slowing down the drying.

Eisistono in the shops of fine art also of the two paints listed above appropriate kit complete with a leaflet to help with the drying times, read the instructions and try ...

Here's an example:

Defects:

As you can see from this type of finishing craquelèe tends to yellow colors, necessarily because you had to lay two coats of varnish and turpentine solvent flatting the paint cracking or gum arabic or shellac has an amber color.

's not exactly a fault, but you might not always like this yellowing effect.

Alternatives:

If you do not like the effect of yellowing traditional antique trade also exist in other water-based products that manage to create a cracked surface. Let's see some
:

paint cracking water bicomponent

These two items sold together in practice to replace the paint antiquing in the paint cracking.
are used in the same manner described above in traditional antique, please read the instructions along with the vials, because each brand has its times.

However, in principle, with this type of product you apply a second coat of paint if you want abundant cracks sparse and thinner if you want thick cracks.

And here's what you get (I tried with the 'print':

Paint cracking water component

This is a 'one product that once stretched without cracks contrast with another paint. Create a network of finer cracks when drying is slow, more often if the drying is speeded up, for example with a hair dryer with the heater.
This type of crack is very similar to the one that is built on the old pottery.

And here's what you get (I tried with that line of "Easy")

The value of this product is that you have to give one coat of paint and once blackened the cracks with the color oil or wax bitumen will not require a further coat of protective paint.

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The alternative Megha

I often made reference to the useful tips Mina / Megha ( that you will find both in his blog that in his site, go to visit them, it is really worth. ..) to find a more 'cost effective alternative to expensive products for the decoupage: the results have always been excellent. Here below his table:

products to save

Mina De Iaco

ACRYLIC = washable wall paints + bottles of concentrated color

GLUE 1kg = glue diluted by use

final paint water paint for wood = 1kg

RETARDANT MEDIUM FOR PICTORIAL = paint water

PATINA WAXY = furniture wax + neutral color pigments that we need

PLASTER ACRYLIC PRIMER or = cementite
water or solvent diluted with water or ready stucco

glazing = bi-component resin or vitrification parquet

PASTA = MATT + tile adhesive mortar / sand mortar or plaster powder (sold in packs of pounds) + glue + Acrylic paint to color the dough

PASTA STUCCO ready for stucco faux fresco = + little white glue can be used for both material and as a decoupage paste snow

BITUMEN = oil paint burnt umber + neutral wax

= Purple acrylic paint gold or copper + neutral wax


Acrylic

acrylic colors are the foundation of decoupage, very versatile, shiny, creamy and are primarily based on d 'water therefore harmless to health.
It requires a great deal especially when you decorate furniture or wedding favors. Since I started
I always used to decorate the washable emulsion paint for walls, I find in hardware stores or department stores in
pack of 1 or 5 kg, of course, the bigger the package the higher the savings. I get even the bottles of concentrated color, are the ones that painters use to paint the mural in red, yellow, green, blue, ocher, brown.
Recycling glass jars with jam type-caps. Towards
in each jar of white and a few drops of coloring, stirring occasionally, until it reaches the desired shade. Always good to close the pots so as not to dry the color, and this is a good supply of acrylic paints ready for use by key delicate type: apricot, pink, yellow, straw, cream, ivory, chrome green, sage green, sky blue that you will need more in construction funds. For the nuances of the painting I advise you to prepare the color with little white acrylic and a few drops of dye to get more intense colors.
If you have decided to use a color like blue or red and you need it in large quantities I suggest you buy the base color ready in the package that best suits your needs: pound up, with the colors that you I listed you can form all the nuances that you need, just a little 'practice and a framework for the combination.

Tip

You have the wrong color or hue is not that right? Do not worry, the color can be changed at any time, adding white if it is too intense, or other colors to completely change you suggest below.
the base color is always a 'acrylic sold in packs of one pound or more suitable for many surfaces, from wood to metal.



combinations of colors used in decoupage

primary colors are: red, blue and yellow along with white and black
which combined together will form
all possible shades, it is not my field to teach the
color theory I will you know the main colors used in decoupage

red + white = pink red + yellow = orange

red + blue = purple blue + yellow = green

course, adding a greater amount of white you will get a touch more clear
C 'is a color that then added in small amounts in other
us those shades that are essential in
decoupage: the ocher
increasing the amount of white you will get varying degrees
Ochre + White = Red + Green + ocher salmon
sage green + white =
White + Blue + ocher ocher
ivory = = sky blue


My recipes

gesso

To replace the gesso can be used stucco
ready diluted with water to make spreadable
with the brush.
You can substitute with acrylic cement, while the cementite
solvent is ideal on metal bases.


Pasta snow-stucco home

strong powder (or hardware bricos)
-glue (hardware or bricos)
-white acrylic paint (acrylic paint for interior fittings or bricos)

-water mix in a bowl a plastic cup filled with plaster dust, a plastic spoon of white glue and a black acrylic white, add water and mix the dough too soft and should not become diluted.
You can store in a sealed glass jars.
The reason why I prefer to use the grout powder and
not ready for the snow pasta is simple: when preparing
not do it perfectly, in fact, I promise not
much, so the dough is grainy and when dry, from the very appearance of snow. To accentuate the effect
I dabbed the paste with a sponge


Tip
Alternatively you can use putty ready quickly for large cracks in tubes sold in hardware stores


decoupage glue

in decoupage glue is very important to achieve a good job. All kinds of paper requires a different type of glue that does not mean buying many types, what is needed instead is a different dilution depending on the type of paper and support. The glue is suitable for this purpose, high transparency and is not harmful. Practical tip



The finer the paper is delicate and paste all the more must be diluted glue
To avoid mistakes I always take the same type of glue, 1 kg tin
the wood that is much denser than the type paper and then diluted once is definitely more yield.
decoupage paper: the glue should be diluted with the ratio 5 parts glue and three parts water, one can prepare plenty of storing it in a glass jar.
rice-paper napkins - paper veil: the glue should be diluted to 50% with water being very delicate and fragile the paper needs a very diluted glue.
Handmade paper-this paper is very thick and sometimes encloses the fibers dried flowers and leaves or other filaments, it is very porous and therefore absorbs a great deal needs a very thick paste with a ratio of 4 parts glue and water, you also must be careful if you want to paste it on the curved support is not always easy to fit, usually to be used to cover the photo album as the basis for decorated with decoupage.

Patina
the waxy coating or neutral paste wax is the wax for furniture which was added a color, it is very easy to make and can be used in different ways, you can use acrylics, oils and pigments , just dilute with a little coloring 'of the product are well preserved in a glass container or jar closed.
paste wax for antiquing
To highlight the cracks: the cracks to highlight the crackle mix of oil paint burnt umber with a little 'neutral wax and sealed with a damp sponge
to penetrate well, after a few minutes wipes with a soft cloth to remove excess.
course you can highlight the cracks in any color you like as
sienna, light gold and antique ivory.
The wax is used to slide the color on the paint, so that is absorbed and retained only in the cracks of cracks
excess is easily cleaned.


Tip: If you have at home brown cream for footwear use it to highlight the crackle, is a classic, but it's still a 'good alternative to save.

bitumen Effect: For "dirty" an object and give it a patina
"old" use the wax to the color neutral mixed
oil burnt umber, especially
on decoupage material with the paste filler paste wax

gold and copper : acrylic mixed with gold and copper
neutral wax to obtain a paste that is used especially for gilding
decoupage material, of course, the paste wax can be done in all colors


paste putty faux fresco
ready to be noted that the grout can be used in the fake fresco as is already packed but I prefer
add to the mix a teaspoon of PVA glue
undiluted because it makes the dough more elastic
especially if used on canvas because it is mobile,
it may happen that the stucco comes off from the media.
It can safely be colored with acrylic paint that dries into
gets a little 'clearer.
Of course it is better to color it first just in case
you should use a light shade, because if you add too much color
the dough becomes soft putty and it will be difficult to spread and shaped with a spatula.


blasted

Pasta Pasta can be substituted with sandblasted tile adhesive
With the addition of fine sand or mortar for the common
plaster mixed with water and a tablespoon of glue
make it more elastic. Even
This paste can be colored either before or after
The glue for the tiles that the plaster mortar
can buy in small packages (1 kg.)
both in hardware and in department stores